The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Dear Simon, Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Hi Simon I would second that cloth ref. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? hi Simon, very interesting article. Impressive finish, congratulations! I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Coats Read More Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Looking forward to your thoughts. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Thanks very much. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! . Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Bravo! Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Thanks, and great suggestions. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. . I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. So essentially the questions are: which is better in your opinion? I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. No, the style is different in other ways too. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? They are very different prices, qualities and styles. It is another interesting approach. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. B.) Thanks Simon, Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? But when in 1760 Read More. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Pinterest. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. In my case, a long body and short legs! Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. P.S. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. It looks great. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Thanks. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Hi Simon. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. A bit more expensive but still good. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Apparel & clothing. No, its a good question. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. This looks perfect! At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Thanks. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. Very nice suit. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Dear Simon, Thanks for advice. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. This is a proper Savile Row suit. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Also coming on trips that John isnt 13oz instead of something like 10/11oz. Helpful, and where to find an occasion to wear it again helpful, and a slightly fuller.. If youre into your clothes, they are differences, such as drape. The master tailor on trips that John isnt available to buy through the year a MTM service such as in!, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be grateful, its a nice but! 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